A recent study has found a concerning number of European cosmetics products marked as ‘perfume-free’ contained allergens. The study was coordinated by the EDQM (The European Directorate for the Quality of Medicines and Healthcare) and concluded that cosmetics sold throughout Europe failed to comply with legislation governing allergy inducing fragrances.
Tests were conducted by the European Network of Official Cosmetics Control Laboratories (OCCLs) to assess compliance by cosmetics brands in terms of EU legislation on safety, labelling and claims. In total, 932 samples of cosmetics, such as skin, hair and lip care products, as well as deodorants and perfumes, were collected in eight European countries between 2018 and 2020. The sampled products had been manufactured in 34 different countries, with the majority (85%) manufactured in Europe. Of these, 544 samples were marked “perfume-free” (or a similar statement).
The overall compliance of products tested in this market surveillance study was 80% but it fell to 59% for perfumes.
Incorrect labelling
All samples were tested for the presence of 24 specific allergenic fragrance compounds. Results showed that 7.7% of samples were non-compliant with legislative requirements due to a missing or false declaration of allergenic fragrance compounds and 2.3% due to claims that the authorities considered misleading.
Furthermore, 3.1% of products marketed as perfume free, fragrance free or similar contained allergenic fragrance compounds.
Linalool, benzyl alcohol and limonene were the most frequent sources of non-compliance.
12.7% of the samples tested were deemed non compliant for a range of other reasons including incorrect labelling or unauthorised claims. Some preservatives were also not in accordance with European regulations (iodopropynyl butylcarbamate, methylisothiazolinone). Further objections were due to high content of cadmium or low molecular weight mineral-oil compound found in lip-care products.
Two products (0.2%) were assessed as unsafe products, one due to the prohibited use of iodopropynyl butylcarbamate in a body lotion and one because of microbiological contamination.
According to the EDQM, there was no significant difference in the non-compliance levels within the different European countries included in the study.
“Ensuring compliance of cosmetic products is key to avoiding potential health risks. The problems revealed by this study demonstrate the continuing need for close co-operation between Official Cosmetics Control Laboratories, in the interest of public health in Europe,” commented Susanne Keitel, Director of the EDQM.